NEIGHBORHOOD NUGGET
Tacko brings taste of Nantucket to Cow Hollow

Nick Fasanella has a way with tacos. So far, he’s parlayed his Midas touch into Nick’s Crispy Tacos on Polk Street, Tortilla Heights on Divisadero, the Taco Shop at Underdogs in the Inner Richmond, and most recently, Tacko on Fillmore in Cow Hollow.

Nick’s true loves are sailing, which he learned to do on the waters off Nantucket Island, and cooking. He started in the kitchen with his grandfather and finished up at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa. Tacko, which takes its funky spelling from ACK – the abbreviation for the Nantucket airport – is a combination of counter-service taqueria and New England cafe. In addition to all of Nick’s signature tacos, quesadillas, burritos, and other Mexican fare, Tacko serves up a lobster roll that will make East Coast transplants drool. And Nick plans to take his tacos east where he will open a second Tacko on, of course, Nantucket.

Connecticut architect Trudy Dujardin, who is also Nick’s stepmother, designed Tacko with a distinctly Nantucket vibe, featuring a gray exterior with window boxes and white trim. Inside, the restaurant has white wood-paneled walls,
wood countertops, and nautical light fixtures.

The taco menu will look familiar to Nick’s fans, featuring a sampling of tacos “Nick’s way.” Carne asada, carnitas, chicken, or veggies are served on both a grilled crispy corn tortilla and a soft tortilla, along with Monterey jack cheese, pinto beans, pico de gallo, and guacamole. Fish tacos can also be prepared in a similar fashion or “Baja style” – beer battered and wrapped in two soft corn tortillas with cilantro cabbage and red onions, lime, and roasted tomato salsa. There are also grilled mahi mahi or gulf shrimp tacos.

And then there’s the lobster roll: hot buttered lobster in a toasted hot dog bun that comes with lemon and a bag of Cape Cod chips.

Burritos include variations of beans, cheese and rice with the addition of carnitas, chicken, Baja-style fish, grilled mahi mahi, or shrimp. Meatless burritos include veggie or simple bean and cheese selections.

You can also order a carne asada, chicken or carnitas quesadilla.

Extras and sides range from chips and salsa, guacamole, a grilled corn and black bean taco salad, and tortilla soup to rice and beans, Spanish rice and sour cream.

Tacko’s bar menu includes Green Flash West Coast IPA and Lagunitas Pilsner on draft, a selection of Mexican and domestic beer, wine, sangria, and the Margaritish: fresh lime juice, agave wine, and orange and agave syrup. Housemade agua fresca is available in several flavors as well as Mexican sodas.

Lovers of Nick’s tacos won’t be disappointed with Tacko; those seeking something new will find the lobster roll and a pleasant New England-style spot in which to eat it.

Tacko: 3115 Fillmore Street; Tuesday–Sunday 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; 415-796-3534, www.tacko.co

E-mail: julie@marinatimes.com