NEIGHBORHOOD NUGGET
Bistro Aix blends California and Provencal flavors to perfection

When Bistro Aix underwent its big remodel last summer, patient patrons’ long, nine-month wait was well worth it. Always a Marina favorite, this self-described California-Provençal bistro is a cozy spot for a winter’s night dinner, although many have enjoyed the restaurant’s patio with its glass atrium and 80-year-old olive tree during the frequently balmy fall. This is a spot for families, for friends around the table, or couples on dates; the warm, casual atmosphere suits all.

The new oak-burning grill, glimpsed from the partially open kitchen, is one of Bistro Aix’s finest features. It allows for several grilled meat, fish, and poultry entrees, but also the bistro’s authentic Provençal-style French baguettes, focaccia and other breads to be baked in house. Bistro Aix features mainly organic, local ingredients purchased from farmers’ markets and takes pride in supporting smaller wine growers and producers who practice sustainable vineyard management and produce natural wines.

Many diners opt to start with the grilled Monterey calamari with black olives, white bean crostini and sauce persillade (parsley), or the house-cured salmon on a potato galette with dill cream and baby greens. There is always a soup du jour and several salads, such as the Star Route Farm baby lettuce salad with fresh herbs and Dijon mustard vinaigrette, or a baby beet salad with baby spinach, goat cheese, and orange vinaigrette. All the flavors are balanced and refreshing.

There are pizzas and pastas as well as entrees off the grill from which to choose. Try the spaghettini with San Marzano tomatoes, Genovese basil and Grana Padano cheese; or a cracker-crust pizza with tomato, mozzarella, Fontina, and Parmesan (you can add applewood bacon, leeks, rapini, and Gruyère for a more robust meal).

From the grill, standouts include the crispy roasted Sonoma chicken breast with baby red potatoes, Blue Lake green beans, and jus; bouillabaisse with Alaskan halibut, clams, calamari, a tomato-fennel broth, Yukon potatoes, and rouille; a grilled Creekstone Farms New York steak with escarole salad and Béarnaise sauce; or the grilled Creekstone Farms hamburger on focaccia with aioli and fries.

Bistro Aix’s small, finely crafted wine list includes many whites and reds by the glass featuring vintages from Spain, France, Italy, and California, as well as two beers on draft. Desserts are simple and sweet: sample a moist walnut cake, a rustic apple pie or chocolate torte.

If you haven’t been back to Bistro Aix yet, this holiday season is the perfect time to stop by. But you may want to make reservations – it’s a popular spot!


Bistro Aix: 2240 Steiner Street (between Chestnut and Lombard); dinner nightly 5:30–10 p.m.; 415-202-0100, www.bistroaix.com

E-mail: [email protected]