Going strong since 1956

One of Ernest Hemingway’s favorite expressions was “the true gen.” The term was coined by the Royal Air Force in World War II, when aircrews were given general information about the weather and enemy positions – accurate information was considered “true gen.” Papa took the term a step further, using it to refer to Gary Cooper, his Idaho hunting pal and the man who played the brave antifascist fighter Robert Jordan in For Whom the Bell Tolls (Paramount Pictures, 1943). The great scribe said, “More than anyone, Gary Cooper exemplified the true gen.” Meaning, Coop was one genuine cat in Hem’s parlance.

If you’re looking for a true gen (or a couple of them) here in San Francisco, look no further than Luigi Romani and Matteo Crivello of Caesar’s Italian Restaurant (2299 Powell Street at Bay, 415-989-6000, www.caesarssf.com). Luigi has been running the front of the house as partner since 1986, after starting as a cook in 1976 and then moving on to waiter and bartender. When Clyde popped in to Hail Caesar, Signore Clydedisimo was blown away by how Luigi remembered almost every customer’s first name and was so quick with a warm smile. “Our customers become a part of us. I talk to them, worry about them when they don’t come in for a while.”

In the back of the house is master chef Matteo. “I enjoy what I’m doing.” The two work in tandem like Joe Montana and Dwight Clark.


Luigi emigrated here from Italy when he was 16 years old and fell in love with the big, beautiful restaurant almost immediately; so much so, he started working there. He saw the esteemed eatery as a great opportunity. Much like Luigi, the rest of the staff has been there forever, and he considers his co-workers part of his family. Like the lovely, ever-so-nice and huge-friend-of-Clyde Miss Grace, who helps Luigi run the front of the house. Clyde pressed Luigi for the secret of Caesar’s longevity and he said, “Not much has changed since 1956. Customers tell us the place is just like it was in the ’50s.” Luckily for Caesar’s, the place is passed on from generation to generation by its customers. Luigi told Clyde he has seen kids come with their parents, have kids of their own, their kids have kids, and they all come here. People come from far away – not only all parts of northern California but also the entire country and world.

Clyde also wanted to know what Caesar’s special nights were, but the veteran restaurateur said, “All nights are special.” Wow, talk about a guy who digs his gig. “Where else can you get a seven-course meal at a great price?” Luigi told Clyde. The small plates craze was never even a blip on the radar screen for these cats. Clyde is no fan of small plates; it’s expensive and working-on-my-waistline-Clyde orders Amici’s when he gets home after spending too much on those little portions.

There are pictures of Old Blue Eyes, the Chairman of the Board – yeah, Mr. Frank Sinatra – all over Caesar’s. But Luigi told Clyde the voice ate at Caesar’s before his time there, although the banquet room (book the banquet room for a special occasion, Luigi will give you a good deal) is named after the famed crooner. But, he did say that Paul Sorvino, Michael Douglas and Karl Malden were regulars at one time, and when Clyde asked him to spill some dirt, he replied, “They had a couple glasses of wine, ate and had a good time.” That’s why Luigi is a true gen; he doesn’t need to blah blah. Luigi wouldn’t slam the small plate movement either, saying, “It’s wonderful to read about the innovations and to see the infusion of cultures.” Clyde thinks Papa and Luigi would have been pals; ditto for Matteo. Remember, Papa drove an ambulance in Italy during World War I, and Hem’s Italian wasn’t that bad.

Luigi considers San Francisco to be a place of “culinary magic,” but in terms of trends and Caesar’s, his response to Clyde was, “Why change?”

Matteo probably brought on the only changes at Caesar’s. His father was a fisherman in Palermo, Sicily and he told Clyde, “It’s in my blood.” But, way back when the Sicilian started at the restaurant, the only seafood was deep-fried or breaded, “And there wasn’t even a seafood pasta!” So, Matteo got busy, adding seafood pasta and fresh fish, noting, “We’re right on the water.” Watching Matteo cook is like watching Picasso paint, and Clyde enjoyed being in the back of the house watching him work. Matteo looked at Clyde like he should be in a straight jacket when the Clydester asked him about the huge portions. “Who else is going to offer a seven-course meal?” Matteo chided. Clyde dug into his meal with gusto, with antipasti, minestrone, a pasta course, and a to-die-for veal chop. Oh, yeah, there’s dessert, too – try the spumoni. As Clyde waddled out of Caesars, Matteo was still in the kitchen perfecting his craft and Luigi was showing a waiter his new section of tables. These cats never stop trying to be better and know that listening and chatting with customers is the only way to do so. No wonder they’ve been around since 1956.

ALIOTOS BACK IN THE HOOD

Alioto’s Garage has been open since 1939 in the Mission, but the Aliotos have finally decided to come closer to home. Sure, the Mission location will stay open, but owners Matt and Chris Alioto have teamed with Columbus Auto Body to open Alioto’s Garage at 2020 Van Ness Avenue (at Pacific, 415-928-0192, www.columbus-autobody.com). These cats know what to do to your car when it gets dinged, but Clyde had other questions.

Clyde had to ask, are you related to the former mayor? The Wharf restaurant folks? The former supervisor Michela Alioto-Pier? Lawyer Angela who just got huge bucks from George Lucas? The wine impresario Joe? “Yes, we’re all cousins,” the two said almost in unison. Clyde loves old-school San Francisco families – when asked about the family tree, the lads referred Inspector Clyde to their uncle, who can somehow figure out the genealogy. They’re too busy fixing cars to figure out their oh-so-deep gene pool. Clyde respects any business opening in our neck of the woods in this economy, and Chris said, “Our Mission business is doing better than it’s ever done, and we felt now is the time to expand because rents and costs are cheaper.” Imagine that, the sputtering economy actually working for somebody. Thank God these two refugees from corporate America got out when the getting was good and now provide us with good service at a fair price.

“Ninety percent of our business [in the Mission] is from insurance companies,” said Matt, a former information technology dude who got out when his company was devoured by Berkshire Hathaway. The brothers know the car fanatics in 94123 aren’t slaves to their insurance companies; they are ready to work with and without insurance companies in their new digs on Van Ness. Both Aliotos wanted to put to rest the unfair perception that folks who work on cars are thieving scum, said Matt, “I personally check every item on the bill and make sure it’s done. I’m thorough, and that’s why we have repeat business.” Funny, just like Luigi (he has been an Alioto’s customer forever) and Matteo at Caesar’s, the Aliotos divide the front of the house and the back of the house. Chris works with customers because, he says, “I’m a people person.” Matt works with the cars because he’s a technician. Clyde knows everyone’s car is their baby, so trusting painting and auto body to complete strangers is somewhat ridiculous. Keep it in the family and keep it Alioto. It’s hard to throw a rock without hitting an Alioto in 94123, isn’t it?

“We just love San Francisco,” said Chris, “and this was a great opportunity.” The Columbus Auto Body owner is winding down on his workload in preretirement and wanted to leave the location in good hands. What better hands than some Aliotos? And why not share the business with them? “It’s a good transition; the owner is going to help us out with it.” The one thing that has kept them in business in the Mission is customer service, and the same high standards will apply on Van Ness. Car accidents are a drag, but take the pain out of them by going to Alioto’s Garage.

A POET IN OUR MIDST

A friend-of-Clyde showed the Clydester a book of poems about the Giants’ World Series victory called O, Gigantic Victory (www.facebook.com/OGiganticvictory, [email protected], available at Books, Inc. on Chestnut Street). Steve Hermanos has written a book of poems (no, not as good as Bukowski) about our wonderful fall. Hermanos is a realtor in 94123 and is kind of a kooky cat. Here is some of his stuff:

Yes, this is really happening
Derek Lowe, Roy Halladay, Roy Oswalt, Cliff Lee – each smote,
Vanquished, gone, sitting on their asses watching
The carousel of Giants hitters.

Ah, ring in the New Year. Happy New Year to you and yours from the Marina Times!

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