Neighborhood Nugget
Tacolicious is taco-wonderful

Just when you thought it wasn’t possible for another Mexican restaurant to open in the Marina, along comes Tacolicious on Chestnut, the offshoot of Joe Hargrave’s popular taco truck at the Thursday Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Hargrave closed his former Marina restaurant, Laiola, in favor of expanding on his slow-braised meat tacos and adding an extensive tequila and cocktail menu and other Mexican specialties. The taco truck is still in operation.

Tacolicious is already a hit, with happy crowds lunching and brunching outdoors on warm days, and patrons enjoying extended cocktail hours throughout the evening. Hargrave breaks down his “Tequila y Mescal” page-long list of tequilas into categories based on how long each has been aged in oak, from little-to-no oak to a minimum of one year in oak. Each category boasts at least 10 kinds of tequila, and there are several kinds of single-village mescal from Del Maguey. This is the place to come if you want to taste an unusual tequila.

House cocktails range from a simple margarita de la casa to the Mexican Traitor, a blend of dark rum, Fresno chilies, pineapple, and lemon. Tacolicious doesn’t let wine fans down either; there is a healthy selection of whites, reds, and rosés, all from Mexico – what a fun way to discover a new favorite! And, as it says on the menu, for “drivers, kids, and recovering alcoholics” there is house-made lemonade, soda, and several Mexican nonalcoholic fruit drinks. Bottled Mexican beers and beer on tap are also available.

But, of course, the tacos are the main draw. You can order them in quantities of one, four, or ten, with choices that include Rancho Gordo Vallarta beans, squash, and nopales (prickly pear cactus); fried local rock cod, cabbage, and tangy crema; shot-and-a-beer braised Petaluma chicken; traditional carnitas; and guajillo-braised beef short rib. Tacolicious also features a taco of the week, and daily specials are available at 5:30 p.m. such as grilled ranchero steak on Mondays, salmon tamales on Wednesdays, and picadillo-stuffed poblano peppers on Thursdays. On Sundays, Tacolicious serves the “old school tacos” that made Hargrave’s taco truck such a success.

If you’re not in the mood for tacos, you can order a “snack” of chili con queso dip, California yellowtail ceviche, or spicy pork ribs among other selections. There are several soups, salads, and sides such as a “Marina girl salad” with romaine, cucumber, radishes, and pumpkin seeds; and a vegetarian pozole with chili broth, hominy, asparagus, and carrots; or drunken beans.

Desserts are simple: a house-made flan, citrus sorbet, and Laiola’s pan con chocolate with Valrhona chocolate, Sciabica’s Sevillano olive oil, and Maldon sea salt.

Tacolicious is casual, authentic Mexican dining at its best. Now that spring is finally here, stop by for an antojito, a snack, a taco, or a cocktail, and you’ll feel as though you’re south of the border in no time flat.

Tacolicious: 2031 Chestnut Street; Sunday–Wednesday 11:30 a.m.–11:00 p.m., Thursday–Saturday 11:30 a.m.–midnight; 415-346-1966, www.tacolicioussf.com