The Tablehopper

Cocotte and coffee, plus new projects in 2013

Coqueta chef Michael Chiarello Photo: courtesy becca pr

Good news for S.F.’s Embarcadero (and for his many lady fans): Chef Michael Chiarello of Bottega (Napa), television, book, and NapaStyle fame will be opening a Spanish restaurant called Coqueta in spring 2013 in the former Lafitte space. The Spanish theme will include regional dishes from Madrid, Catalonia, the Basque country, and beyond (Chiarello’s daughter lives in Barcelona, and he was inspired by his many trips there). He’s working with architects Alberto Rivera and Michael Guthrie to transform the Pier 5 space: There’s a main dining room, a glass-enclosed outdoor terrace, and it sounds like there are plans for a tapas bar, too. Stand by for more in the coming months.

Looks like 2298 Fillmore Street (most recently Long Bar) will reopen. Owners Albert and Klaus Rainer (of Leopold’s in Russian Hill and the former Cafe Metropol downtown) are planning to open a tavern. A few more details: red leather booths, a lively vibe and unfussy cuisine. Look for a name soon.

Hyde Street Bistro has become Cocotte (1521 Hyde St., 415-292-4415). The owners, Aurore Martinez and Mikael Audry, have revamped the spot to be more French rustic. The front now opens to the street, providing a neat spot to sit on a nice day and watch the cable cars and people. The menu focuses on classic French dishes, with roast chicken as a particular highlight. Bwok. They’ve also got a nice family-style rotisserie to-go menu for those needing a quick dinner plan. Open Wednesday–Monday 5:30
p.m.–10 p.m.

Nectar Wine Lounge (3330 Steiner Street, 415-345-1377) is now serving weekend brunch, along with juices from Thrive. There are mimosas with unusual juice combinations, plus a variety of healthful and not-so-healthful choices. Mimosas and juices are available by the glass, flight or carafe. Brunch is served Saturday–Sunday 11 a.m.–3 p.m. (You can also swing by for just the juices — one 16-ounce container of Thrive’s fresh-pressed juice is $9 — Monday–Friday 8 a.m.–3 p.m. and Saturday–Sunday 9 a.m.–3 p.m.). The cold-press juices are hydraulically extracted, ensuring a stable, nutritious product packed with good enzymes. Yup, start the new year with some healthful juice in your life — let’s see how long you stick with those
resolutions, right?

Michael Siegel, the chef de cuisine of Betelnut (he’s been there for the past five years, plus time at Bix before that), left the restaurant to open his own Jewish deli concept in the Financial District called Shorty Goldstein’s. He’ll be featuring a variety of family recipes — from his grandmother’s chopped liver to his great-grandma’s potato knish and challah from mom — plus some other pastries. And, of course, there will be his own house pastrami, smoked fish, pickles, and more, like seasonal salads. While the deli will be primarily a takeout spot, there will be 25 seats. Brunch and lunch will be served Monday–Friday to start. As for the actual location, it’s a secret for now. Stand by for an opening date too.

There are now even more coffee options in North Beach. First, Beacon Coffee & Pantry (805 Columbus Avenue, 415-814-2551) — from cousins Alexis Liu and Christian Chan — is now serving Sightglass coffee, plus pastries from Artisan Bakers in Sonoma and some retail goodies, too. The duo boasts a pretty impressive background in design, and the space they’ve created is reflective of their prowess. There will be artwork from rotating artists on display, and check out that succulent art piece!

Design-forward coffeehouse Réveille Coffee (222 Columbus Avenue, 415-789-6258) is a project by two brothers, Tommy and Chris Newbury, who have been running a coffee truck in Jackson Square for a while now. They are serving Four Barrel Coffee, plus breakfast and lunch, with menu items like house-made sticky buns, grain salads and sandwiches.

Cheers! Here’s wishing everyone a happy New Year!

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Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular weekly e-column about S.F. dining (subscribe for free at, and has a book, The Tablehopper’s Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco. E-mail hot tips to [email protected].