The Tablehopper

It’s smelling meaty in the Marina, and sweet at B. Patisserie

Release the mochi doughnut holes (coming soon from B. Patisserie). Photo: ©


Those in the Marina will soon be able to get their lamb salad and frozen Greek yogurt on with the upcoming opening of the fourth location of Souvla in the former David’s Tea space (2272 Chestnut St.). They are targeting mid-2018 for the opening, and it will mimic the Hayes Valley size and layout, with some outdoor seating. The full Souvla menu will be available from 11 a.m.–10 p.m. daily.


Potentially exciting for the neighborhood: If it makes it through planning and approvals, New York’s Shake Shack could be taking over half of the vacant Real Food Company space (3060 Fillmore Street). The other half will be a boxing gym, handy for working off your anger at binge eating a double ShackBurger. Stand by on this one.


I (luckily) attended the fifth birthday party of San Francisco pastry and viennoiserie favorite B. Patisserie (2821 California St.), and business partners Belinda Leong and Michel Suas had so much news to announce, it made me wonder when they sleep. First up, they are expanding to Seoul, Korea, and opening in late April. We got to taste some of their Korea-bound creations (which sadly are only going to be available there), like gochujang cheese sablé; hodo, or kinako, or golden sesame and red bean kouign-amann; and a gorgeous barley tea tart.

Next up, Leong is launching a new brand, a completely different concept called Mochi Mochi, based on mochi doughnut holes (and some are stuffed with pastry cream) in flavors like baklava, horchata, and Boston cream. She will also be serving flavored milks (iced or hot) in flavors like chocolate, strawberry, green tea, and cookies and cream. Like B., it’s going to start as a pop-up at venues around town while she looks for a permanent location.

And then (I know!), they are also launching a new “happy time” and dessert bar at B. Patisserie. The plan is to open once a month, Friday–Saturday 6–10 p.m., and offer some savory bites and snacks that are happy-hour-meets-teatime, like cured trout crostini with lemon ricotta. Another bite we had was the banh meatball, a play on a banh mi sandwich, with char siu pork belly that was confited, breaded, and fried, topped with a Kewpie remoulade with pickled vegetables used in banh mi, plus jalapeño and cilantro. (You and I both already know you want this.) And don’t forget, they have a beer and wine license! They will also offer a trio of desserts, like citrus cheesecake and an apple tart with vanilla Chantilly — it ends up Leong missed plating desserts in the restaurant world, so this is her way to get back to that. Looking forward to all of this.


Well folks, it’s the end of an era of Hosspitality and Hossy Hugs: Our dear Hoss Zaré has headed back to his native Iran and is starting a new chapter in his life back home. He has been such a big part of our local culinary scene for years. He started as a dishwasher at The Fly Trap back in 1988, which he later bought and took over. He’s had some really rough times (his parents were tragically and horrifically murdered in Iran, and he suffered a heart attack back in 2010, scaring us all), but he has always kept his big heart open and full of love.

He included this in a farewell piece he sent to me: “I spent three decades of my life waking up to dazzling sunshines, soothing breezes, and calming sea waves of San Francisco filled with love of the sun, delight of the beach, and generosity of the ocean overpowered by warmheartedness and thoughtfulness of its people. You supported me during my days of gloom and glory, success and failure, and health and hurt. In return to all your kindness and hospitality, I brought you the sweetness of Baklava, colorfulness of Koofteh, and richness of the bone marrow, and my genuine Hosspitality!” Indeed.

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Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular insider weekly e-column, tablehopper, about the San Francisco dining and imbibing scene; get all the latest news at Follow @tablehopper on Twitter and Instagram for more culinary finds!