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The Tablehopper

Marina scores a beer hall; Cow Hollow has a new place to imbibe

Fort Mason has one of the city’s coolest beer halls, Radhaus. Photo: Radhaus

MARINA

A modern Bavarian beer hall from the beer-lovin’ gents behind Biergarten and Suppenküche (Aaron and Matt Hulme) is now open: Radhaus (2 Marina Blvd., Bldg. A, Fort Mason Center, 415-445-4556). The 3,700-square-foot industrial space includes a bar, communal bench, and plenty of tables, plus some amazing wood elements (bar tops, communal seating) made from a 200-foot ponderosa pine tree sourced by Evan Shively, with quite a view of the bay; Envelope A & D is behind the design.

Talented chef Timmy Malloy’s menu of Cali-Bavarian eats spans breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks. He even traveled to Germany and trained at a 12th-century Bavarian castle and inn. His menu includes a chicken schnitzel sandwich with buttermilk sauce, cucumber, dill, and pickled onion; a roast half chicken with bread dumplings; and more.

You’ll find Bavarian Biers from some of the world’s oldest breweries, including Weltenburger Kloster, an operating monastic brewery since 1050. There’s also a wine list with selections from Germany, Austria, Italy, and West Coast wineries, plus a selection of cocktails. Radhaus pours specialty regional liqueurs and is the first to import Bavarian spirits distilled from Bier into the United States. Daily 11 a.m.–2 p.m. lunch; 5–10 p.m. dinner.

Poor neighboring Greens (2 Marina Boulevard., Bldg. A, Fort Mason Center) has suffered a kitchen fire and will remain closed through September for repairs. Stand by for a reopening date.

COW HOLLOW

The former Matrix is now White Rabbit (3138 Fillmore Street, 415-993-5399), part of The PlumpJack Group’s portfolio. The name pays homage to the history of the building — where Jefferson Airplane recorded “White Rabbit” in 1967. It’s meant to be chic yet comfortable with couches and low-slung tables (the space was designed by Shopworks).

There are classic and specialty cocktails, beer and rosé on tap, and small, shareable plates. There’s also a choose-your-own vinyl record player, with a stash of records from bands that played at the Matrix in the ’60s (The Doors and Janis Joplin) to current artists, although D.J.s are in charge of the soundtrack Thursday through Saturday nights. There are also private areas you can reserve. Wednesday–Thursday 5 p.m.–midnight, Friday 5 p.m.–2 a.m., Saturday 2 p.m.–2 a.m., Sunday 2–10 p.m.

Over at the Balboa Cafe (3199 Fillmore Street), another PumpJack property, there’s a new chef who has updated the menu, but don’t worry, no one is touching the classic Balboa burger in a baguette and Sunday prime rib. Chef Goran Basarov, most recently from Colorado, has added dishes like shishito peppers with spring onions, roasted garlic and lemon aioli; citrus-cured salmon with house-made herb Boursin cheese and pickled mustard seeds on sourdough toast; and mains like diver scallops with fricassee of seasonal vegetables, crispy prosciutto Americano, mojo picon, and aji dulce. For lunch, there’s buttermilk fried chicken sandwich with campfire chicken breast, jack cheese, Napa slaw, and tomatoes on English muffin. For brunch, there’s chef’s signature Benedict with vol au vent, applewood bacon gravy, poached egg, hollandaise, and organic greens. An espresso-tini on tap should revive you.

And in the bummer news department, Contrada (2136 Union Street) has closed after two years.

FILLMORE

I’m always happy to hear when Farmerbrown’s Jay Foster is up to something, and this time it’s a new project coming mid-September: Isla Vida Afro-Caribbean Grill (1325 Fillmore Street). It will be casual, “inspired by the islands, people, and lifestyle of the African diaspora. … a warm, vibrant place where flavors are rooted in the culture and prepared with love and craft. Expect wood-fired meats, tostones, Cubanos, great music, and good vibes.”

Foster is partnering with Farmerbrown friends Matthew Washington and Erin Traylor and is excited to open a project in the historic Fillmore District (in the former Black Bark BBQ space). The team traveled to New York, Miami, and Cuba for culinary inspiration.

There will be 40 seats inside, 20 outside, and a counter/quick service model in expectation of a fair amount of take-out and delivery. They plan to handle their own delivery to keep control over customer service and offer a full circle of hospitality.

The group just launched an Indiegogo campaign for a final funding push to help add outdoor seating, eco-friendly electric cargo delivery bikes, and better signage and bar equipment. Please show some support to this black-owned business trying to keep the soul of the Fillmore alive — like they said in an email, even $5 helps. Wednesday–Friday 11 a.m.–8 p.m., Saturday–Sunday 10 a.m.–8 p.m.

 

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Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular insider weekly e-column, Tablehopper, about the San Francisco dining and imbibing scene; get all the latest news at tablehopper.com. Follow @tablehopper on Twitter and Instagram for more culinary finds.