The Tablehopper

The triangle gets a new look and late-night dining with Cow Marlowe

The Marlowe burger at the new Cow Marlowe. Photo: courtesy Big Night Restaurant Group


Now open from Anna Weinberg and James Nicholas of the Big Night Restaurant Group (Marlowe, Petit Marlowe, Leo’s Oyster Bar, Park Tavern, The Cavalier, and Marianne’s) is Cow Marlowe (3154 Fillmore Street, 415-508-5898) in Cow Hollow, in the former Eastside West.

Chef-partner Jennifer Puccio and chief pastry officer Emily Luchetti have put together an expanded menu, with new dishes like grilled furikake green beans with smoked egg yolk, caviar, and truffle aioli, and exclusively for the late-night menu is Cow Marlowe poutine, featuring Kennebec fries with braised beef short ribs, cracklings, Caesar aioli, and Parmesan cheese. There’s an entire section dedicated to bar bites, including the trademark crispy Brussels sprout chips and their warm deviled egg made with aged provolone, pickled jalapeño, and bacon. Chef de cuisine Steve Dustin also has an entree of warm Brussels sprout and chicory Caesar with Spanish anchovies; and seafood-stuffed petrale sole with diver scallops and bay shrimp, celery root, spinach, smoked paprika, and sunchoke chips; and the favorite poulet vert. For dessert, Luchetti offers some playful spins on American classics like the orange creamsicle sundae with bourbon and caramel-soaked oranges, vanilla bean ice cream, orange sorbet, and candied almonds; and Key lime cheesecake with wild blueberry sauce.

The bar program features a new menu from Mike Anders of Marianne’s and Leo’s Oyster Bar, and expands on the classics from the original Marlowe. There are some fun new additions exclusive to the location, like the Lululemon Drop with Tito’s vodka, Acqua di Cedro, lemon, and thyme; and Brad & Chad, made with Avion Reposado tequila, gin, and green Chartreuse. 

Seems like a good idea to go have Jennifer Puccio’s burger, and soak in the always-fun style from Ken Fulk. Ken Fulk Inc.’s senior designer, Tiffany Kramer, installed a bar and communal table made of Sodalite blue granite in cobalt blue that looks a bit like a beautiful lapis. There are leather banquettes, vintage Thonet-style chairs, Carrara marble tiles, and of course some snazzy wallpaper.

Lunch and brunch begin Saturday, Dec. 1, as well as Sunday dinner service and an all-day menu. For now, hours are Monday–Wednesday 5:30–10 p.m. and Thursday–Saturday 5:30–11 p.m. The late-night menu is served 11 p.m.–1 a.m., and the bar is open Monday–Wednesday 4 p.m.–midnight, and Thursday–Saturday 4 p.m.–1:45 a.m.

Meanwhile, Hayes Valley’s Little Gem will be opening a second location in the former Umami Burger (2184 Union Street). Co-founder Eric Lilavois and chef David Cruz will continue to offer their clean cooking, which is gluten-free, dairy-free, and refined sugar-free. The opening is slated for spring 2019.


Something to look forward to: Pim Techamuanvivit (Kin Khao, Nahm in Bangkok) will be opening Nari in Japantown’s Hotel Kabuki (1625 Post Street) in spring 2019. Look for a seafood focus (Kin Khao chef de cuisine Meghan Clark will be the lead), a larger space (95 seats), and it will be a bit more “grown up” than Kin Khao. The name, which means “women” in Thai, will pay homage to all the women who have taught Pim how to cook (and the cherished recipes from home).


Wow, Italian stalwart Il Fornaio (1265 Battery Street) has closed its San Francisco location after 30 years at Levi’s Plaza (citing a rent increase, an aging building, and slow business). The other locations in Burlingame, Palo Alto, and San Jose are still open.


Some fantastic news for my fellow Alfred’s Steakhouse (659 Merchant Street, 415-781-7058) fans: After mysteriously closing over the summer, the 90-year-old steakhouse (San Francisco’s oldest!) will be reopening Dec. 1, and former owner Al Petri and his family will be involved once again. Daniel Patterson took over the restaurant from the Petris three years ago; Al Petri is coming out of retirement and he will be the majority investor, but Patterson will remain an investor.

When Patterson took over the space, it got a light update, and with it came a menu upgrade with quality and seasonal products, grass-fed beef, à la carte menu options, and … higher prices. The new format back under Al Petri will offer a fixed-price menu: Guests choose which cut of beef they want, and it will come with an appetizer platter for the table; a choice of a Caesar salad, heart of romaine salad, or prawn cocktail; and two sides ($39–$68).

Here’s wishing everyone a very happy holiday season.

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Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular insider weekly e-column, Tablehopper, about the San Francisco dining and imbibing scene; get all the latest news at Follow @tablehopper on Twitter and Instagram for more culinary finds.