Short Bites

Keiko à Nob Hill

Keiko à Nob Hill

Also on Nob Hill, Keiko is one of the few restaurants left in the City offering that truly romantic fine-dining experience. The $95 tasting menu (wine parings additional) changes frequently, but over a half dozen visits, every course was memorable. The most memorable is the caramelized onion mousse with Osetra caviar, sea urchin, scallop tartare, and dashi gelee served in a clear glass vessel filled with cherry blossom smoke. It’s a dish that will take you back to Ron Siegel’s creative zenith at the Ritz-Carlton, and the kind of elaborate, elegant presentation you find less and less of in this era of bacon-obsessed rustic comfort food and purposeful minimalism. While the staid interior hasn’t changed much since Charles of Nob Hill, the food definitely has. There are no cocktails, but the international wine list is extensive with bottles ranging from $40 to $2,100 (and beware the sommelier’s attempt to upsell).

Tip: Even with a Michelin star, there’s no valet, so best to Uber or cab it.

Not to Miss: The menu changes often, but standouts include caramelized onion mousse, king crab and lily bulb soup, lobster ravioli, Wagyu beef ($65 supplement), and salad l’extravagance.

Rating: ◆◆◆

1250 Jones (at Clay)

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