Short Bites

Osso Steakhouse

Osso Steakhouse

I was the first critic to review Bobo’s (back when they still went by Boboquivari’s), and throughout the years, I have given their bone-in filet mignon high marks, naming it my “Best Hunk of Meat” in several “Best of Food and Wine” issues. But original owner Jerry Dal Bozzo sold his interest earlier this year, and unfortunately, without his meticulous quality control, the bone-in filet has fallen off its carnivorous pedestal. Here’s the good news: Dal Bozzo has resurfaced with Osso Steakhouse on Nob Hill. The interior is Art Deco inspired and classier than the funky-fun vibe at Bobo’s, but the “big-bone-in (Osso) filet mignon” will bring you back to Bobo’s glory days. While the leanness of a filet can produce a spongy, tasteless cut of beef, its less common bone-in brethren has more marbling, better texture, and, because of the bone, additional flavor (it rivals a topnotch rib eye). This is an impressive steak, standing four to five inches high and seared with garlic and rosemary for a crisp, aromatic, caramelized crust, while the interior is cooked to rosy medium-rare perfection (and you shouldn’t eat it any other way). The size and quality justify the $43.95 price tag — you’ll pay a lot more for a lot less elsewhere. If you’re dating an NFL linebacker and the “big” isn’t big enough, there’s also the “bigger bone-in filet” for $79.95 (when available). And if you’re with a group, the “New York, New York Bone-in Empire Steak Building” cut (89.95) is a must.

There’s much more to like about Osso’s (a full review is coming soon), but even if you just go for a perfect steak washed down with a perfect martini (shaken not stirred), it’s well worth the trip.

Tip: Street parking is nonexistent so Uber it, cab it, or use Osso’s $10 valet service.

Not to Miss: Bone-in filet, bone-in New York (dry-aged four to six weeks), Porterhouse Osso style (New York and filet cooked separately for even doneness), “New York, New York Bone-in Empire Steak Building” cut, shoestring zucchini fries, iron skillet-roasted mussels, garlic-roasted crab feast, caviar trio.

Rating: ◆◆◆

1177 California Street (at Jones)

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