Chardonnays

As we start rolling into the summer, I start daydreaming about leisurely summertime feasts involving lobster rolls, fried clams, corn dogs, deviled eggs, French fries cooked in duck fat, and roast chicken. Even though the dishes are decadent, I am not in the mood for a heavy red when the weather is warm, and Chardonnay seems to be the white wine to

which most red wine drinkers will accede. But which type of Chardonnay? Whenever possible, I will drag everyone at the table to Burgundy, but these days even the New World has plenty of lovely restrained styles to choose from, such as Peay Vineyards ($42), Lioco ($19) or Hanzell ($35), all of which hail from Sonoma. Of course, if they are available and someone else is paying, I could be happy for weeks with just a sip of Meursault from Domaine Coche-Dury ($400) or Chablis from Francois Raveneau ($200).

— J. Sano