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New & Notable

Troya brings traditional and modern Turkish fare to Fillmore Street

A hidden gem, Troya has been serving standard Turkish and Mediterranean fare for the past six years in a casual, airy space on Clement Street in the Inner Richmond. Now owners Berk Kinalilar and Brigitte Cullen have upped the ante and opened Troya Fillmore in a sleek sophisticated space with a more modern menu to match.

Kinalilar, born in Turkey, has always strived to bring traditional Turkish dishes to San Francisco via Troya. At the Fillmore Street location, along with chef Philip Busacco (formerly with Terzo), he has melded those classics, like kebabs and mezes — or small plates — with more modern California cuisine using organic, sustainable and local ingredients whenever possible.

Troya Fillmore features a long, elegant bar and a cleanly designed dining room. Enjoy a glass of wine, and you’ll find an eclectic mix of Mediterranean, Californian and other wines from which to choose. The menu is largely focused on small plates, especially house-made Anatolian flatbreads. There are also braised lamb dolmas (meat wrapped in grape leaves) with pomegranate molasses and tahini; lentil soup with lemon, mint and olive oil; and grilled Turkish meatballs with pickles and a thick yogurt dip. Other standout mezes include grilled haloumi cheese with roasted apricots and almonds; fried calamari with garbanzo beans, arugula and fennel; seared Monterey sardines with a spiced dressing; and arugula salad with kasseri cheese, dried figs and sumac. It’s easy to put together a delightful meal by sharing several of these small dishes.

If you’re hankering for a bigger repast, Troya’s chicken, lamb, meatball or grilled vegetable kebabs never disappoint. Other larger plates include Turkish beef dumplings with yogurt, dried spices and paprika butter; a lamb and beef burger with picked vegetables, arugula and muhammara, (a dip with peppers, ground walnuts, breadcrumbs, olive oil, garlic, pomegranate molasses, and spices); and of course, moussaka, a layered dish of eggplant and meat topped with béchamel sauce, almost like a lasagna.

If you’re looking for your Mediterranean favorites or some with a modern twist, Troya is a great choice for lunch, a romantic dinner or a larger party. Stop in and try a taste of true Turkish delight!

Troya Mediterranean Kitchen: 2125 Fillmore Street (at Sacramento)
Monday–Friday 11 a.m.–3 p.m. & 5–10 p.m.
Saturday–Sunday 10 a.m.–10 p.m.
415-563-1000, www.troyasf.com

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